Direct Sowing of Seeds:

Seeds and seed mixes can be directly sown on open soil in a garden. If a stratification period is needed, seeds are best sown outdoors in the fall or early winter. Seeds with dormancy sown in the spring or summer will germinate the next year. Sowing directly before a snowstorm is a great natural way to make sure there is good seed to soil contact, as the snow presses the soil to the ground.

Some seeds with tap roots will grow healthiest if directly sown, and are stunted in containers, or experience transplant shock if sown in containers and then planted in the garden. But they will do just fine if germinated in containers and transplanted when they are seedlings (1-6 months old) before their roots develop deeply.

In general we don’t recommend direct sowing for most of the individual species we sell as individual seed, from a standpoint of efficiency (see Managing Expectations with Seeds). Many seeds require light to germinate, and may be moved from the area they are sown due to wind and rain runoff. Seedlings are susceptible to disease and drought, or seed may be consumed by birds, animals, or insects before germinating. Generally, direct sowing seed in a garden will result in less successful germination and seedling survival than sowing in protected containers, where they can be transplanted out in the garden, usually 1-6 months after germinating.

Container Sowing Seeds:

Sowing seeds in pots and containers, or a jug (i.e. the “milk jug method”) is a great way to ensure uniform germination. Seeds in containers are better protected from pests, animals, disease, and harsh weather. Conversely, containers can dry out quickly, or become waterlogged, and will require monitoring as seedlings are growing. All containers must have drainage holes to ensure water does not sit too long in the soil. Porous ceramic containers can wick moisture out of potting soil quickly, and are not preferable for germinating seeds, or will require additional monitoring.

Sunlight:

Young seedlings will need bright light, but can be easily killed by too much full sun. We recommend placing germinated containers in a place that gets a few hours of morning sun and afternoon shade. Near the east facing side of a home, building, or structure will work. Or an area of your yard, porch or driveway that gets morning sun but is shaded by trees later in the day. Unexpectedly warm spring days combined with full afternoon sun exposure can dry out and kill small seedlings as quickly as in an hour or two. Containers sealed with lids or humidity domes will quickly steam baby plants to death if there is no ventilation. If you find seedlings are constantly wilting, consider moving them into even more shade until you decide to transplant them in your garden.

Young native plants often don’t need extra protection from sun as they are being established, assuming proper acclimation (such as those going into full 6+ hour sun). As a precaution, you can temporarily shade newly transplanted plants for 1 week to help get them acclimated (see Transplant Shock). If you notice a plant is struggling in a newly planted site, showing sunburnt, shrivelled, curled, discolored or bleached leaves, make sure it is getting enough shade. If not, consider relocating it when appropriate in fall or spring. (See Light Exposure under Plant Terminology)

Soil For Seeds and Seedlings:

For germinating seeds we recommend a well-drained seed starting or potting soil mix. Commercial mixes are available, such as ProMix. Coconut coir is a popular and affordable sterile potting media. In our experience peat based potting soils do not retain water well and will dry out quickly, becoming hydrophobic when bone dry. We make our own seed starting mix and seedling media from a combination of homemade leaf compost, vermiculite, and fine shredded pine bark.

Soil Amending: 

For planting young or mature plants into the ground, a mix of half (or more) of your native soil and half (or less) of well-rotted compost or leaf mulch is our general recommendation. When amending soil, keep in mind the preference of soil type for a species, and amend more or less as needed. Do not use peat based potting soils to amend native soil; we find this can cause the soil to become hydrophobic over time. (See Soil Types under Plant Terminology.)

Digging Holes and Mature Plants:

Dig a hole between 1 - 2 times as large and deep as the pot or root ball, add and mix in compost, moisten soil, add the plant. The area of the plant where the stem or stalk meets the ground (often the crown of the plant) should not be graded lower than the edge of the hole and should not be heavily covered when infilling soil. Gently fill in soil around the plant and press down with a firm pressure. Too much heavy pressure may compact the soil. Too little pressure may not give the roots a good starting soil contact. Gently water overtop and around the base of the plant and surrounding soil.

Seed To Soil Contact:

All seeds require good contact with soil to ensure they receive enough moisture to germinate. Some seeds should only be surface sown, and others can be buried or covered, depending on the size of seed size. See below for specifics depending on the seed size.

Surface Sow Only: 

Small or tiny, dust-particle-sized seeds require light to germinate, and should only be sprinkled over the surface of pre-moistened soil, and not covered or buried beneath the soil. Water lightly with a light spray or mist to keep the soil moist. Be careful when watering before germination occurs to not bury the seeds. (Optional) Sprinkling a thin layer of sterile sand or vermiculite overtop the soil and sown seeds won't negatively impact germination, and may help to maintain soil moisture and deter surface mold. The tinier the seed (Lobelia, Ludwigia, and Rhexia species as examples), the less helpful this addition will be, and we generally avoid it.

Seeds Should be Covered: 

Larger seeds appreciate being covered by a layer of soil or buried when sown to aid in germination. A general rule of thumb is to cover them with a layer of soil no more than two to three times their width. However, it's better to plant seeds shallow, and most seeds will germinate even if surface sown. (Optional) Sprinkling a layer of sterile sand or vermiculite overtop the soil and sown seeds usually won't negatively impact germination, and may help to maintain soil moisture and deter surface mold.

Watering Seeds: 

For sowing seeds we recommend moistening soil prior. If sowing seed directly, immediately after rainfall or before a snowstorm is a great time to sow or broadcast seed. If sowing in containers (our preferred method), the potting soil should remain consistently moist throughout, but not soggy, until germination occurs. Once moistened, soil in milk jugs or other fully enclosed containers will rarely need to be watered again until being opened to separate seedlings. 

For small or tiny seeds, any subsequent watering before germination should be done with a fine spray or mist to not disturb, relocate, or bury the seeds. After germination, seedlings should be monitored regularly, the soil kept moist to semi-moist, and not allowed to dry out completely. For young and fragile seedlings, a spray mister is best.

Young native plants being transplanted into a garden or landscape will need to be monitored regularly for weather and water. Native plants are hardy, but If a plant is struggling in a site you have placed it, consider relocating it to a place with better soil moisture when appropriate. (See Soil Moisture under Plant Terminology)

Fertilizing:

We really do not recommend artificially fertilizing native plants once they are in the ground. Primarily because added fertilizer, if not used by a plant, enters water runoff and can pollute local waterways and aquatic ecosystems. There is evidence that added synthetic fertilizer has impacts on pollinating insect activity, and impacts native pollinator foraging behavior and health. Fertilizers can induce changes in flower production or altering nutrition structure of pollen and nectar¹, and alter biochemical cues many native bees use to sense flowers².

Many native plants are adapted to (and prefer to) rely only on the lean, low-nutrient soils of their environments. Or plants may naturally thrive in dense communities where nutrients are scarce. Or draw nutrients from the natural processes that build soil, such as fallen leaf litter on a forest floor. Fungi in the soil replenish soil nutrients. And many native plants actually create their own fertilizer (see Soil Inoculant). If desired, we recommend top feeding only with organic compost, decomposed wood chips, untreated wood mulch, or leaf mulch. Excessive fertilization often results in unhealthy overgrowth or draws scale bugs and aphids.

¹ Glaum et al. (2017) found that nitrogen enrichment reduced floral diversity, which can limit forage resources for bees and butterflies. Source: Glaum, P., & Kessler, A. (2017). "Functional mismatch in plant–pollinator interactions caused by nitrogen deposition." Biology Letters, 13(6), 20170189. DOI: 10.1098/rsbl.2017.0189

² Duell, E. B., Settele, J., Potts, S. G., & Breeze, T. D. (2022). "Agricultural pesticides pose a greater hazard to insect pollinators than fertilizers." PNAS Nexus, 1(5), pgac230. DOI: 10.1093/pnasnexus/pgac230

Divide and/or Transplanting Seedlings: 

When germinated seedlings have developed several sets of true leaves, their root systems are developed enough for them to be divided and transplanted into individual pots or directly into your garden. Small (pint or plug) potted plants are usually good to transplant into soil once the roots are visible coming out of the drainage holes. Cloudy and cool days, or rainy weeks of spring and autumn are the best times to transplant (see Transplant Shock). One year old or younger plants may need regular monitoring and occasional watering to survive. Keep the soil consistently moist but avoid overwatering, which can lead to root rot or dampening off.

An old gardening adage after establishing new plants in the ground is: “water daily for the first week, weekly for the first month, monthly for the first year.” After 1 full season, most native plants don’t need additional care except in times of extreme heat or drought.

Transplant Shock:

Refers to the stress that plants experience when they are moved from one growing environment to another, such as from a germination container to a pot, or pot to the ground, or between different soils. The roots of a plant are its circulatory system. Transplanting inevitably damages roots, and a plant will often display signs of shock after being transplanted. Temporarily slowed growth, leaves wilting, yellowing, or dropping off. Young plants generally fare better than older, more established plants when it comes to tolerating severe root disturbance.

In severe cases, a plant may die completely back to its rhizome, or back down to its roots and crown (the part of the plant at/below ground-level, between root and stem), going dormant but not dead. It is an adaptation plants have for getting through times of stress. They will create renewed growth as they settle into their new site, as their roots begin to grow, anywhere from a few days/weeks/months, or (rarely) in spring of the next year. Generally the stronger/deeper rooted the plant (woody plants, legumes, and species with taproots), the more likely they will suffer transplant shock and dieback. So if your plant dies back, wait a few months or 1 season to see if it makes new growth before replacing it.

Transplant shock can lead to stunted growth or plant death if not properly addressed. Here are some tips:

• Make sure soil is moist before and after transplanting. Keep roots moist but not soggy.
• Handle roots as gently as possible. Minimize disturbance and tearing of roots during transplanting.
• Do not pull plants out of soil by their stems. Scoop the plants out from the soil to capture as many roots as possible to maintain the root structure.
• If the plant is flowering, remove all flowers before transplanting. A flowering plant is not focused on growing roots. Removing its flowers will help it to focus on developing its roots.
• Transplant in the right conditions. Cloudy and cool days or rainy weeks of spring and autumn are the best times to transplant. You can also shade newly transplanted plants for 1 week. Anything that will produce some shade over the plant will do. The hotter it is outside, the longer to shade the plant.
• Do not fertilize during transplanting, or at all (see Fertilizing). Top feed only with compost or leaf mulch only.
• (Optional) Mulching or top-dressing loosely around the base of plants helps to retain moisture and regulate soil temperature during establishment. Shredded fallen leaves, pine straw, pine bark nuggets, straw or rice hulls are options. Many herbaceous species do not like to be covered or surrounded with mulch, so use caution.

Have patience with plants as they transition into their new homes. A modern gardener adage is "First year they sleep, second year they creep, third year they leap," referring to how in years 1 to 2 transplanted perennials often don't show much growth or change, and in year 3 they are off and running.

Manage Expectations With Seeds:

Frowing native plants from seed is rewarding, but a game of patience. It is a budget-friendly choice for establishing a garden compared to buying potted plants. But you may need to wait months (or even years) for a plant to go through its natural dormancy and germinate, but most seed grown perennials will need a year or two of root development under their belt to begin flowering. Deep rooted species may not flower until age 3 or 4. A plant you buy from a nursery or garden center is anywhere from 1 to 3 years old from the day it sprouted. Some commercial shrubs or trees are as old as 5-10 years.

A nursery-grown potted plant will bloom much quicker in your garden than the same plant grown from seed. If you want a quick display of blooms in a newly planted perennial bed, you can seed in (see Direct Sowing Seeds) or plant early successional native flowers like Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta), Brown-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia triloba), Lanceleaf coreopsis (Coreopsis lanceolata), and Partridge pea (Chamaecrista fasciculata). These native plants are either annuals, biennials, or short-lived perennials that bloom in their first year (if sown in winter or spring) and only propagate by reseeding, meaning they'll eventually fade out as perennials grow and spread.

Plant Provenance:

The geographic location of a plant population, including the environmental conditions in which it evolved. Provenance is important in ecological restoration and horticulture because plants of specific areas are often adapted genetically to perform better in those regional conditions (see Ecotype).

Ecoregion:

A large area comprised of similar climate, soil, topography, and ecological communities. Ecoregions help categorize geographic regions with distinct biodiversity and are often used in conservation to ensure that plant species are within their natural habitats.

• The central Virginia area is largely bisected down the middle by the Piedmont and Atlantic Coastal Plain, with the Fall Zone (Atlantic Seaboard Fall Line) being a geologic boundary differentiating the two regions. Fun fact: the Fall Zone is responsible for Richmond's James River rapids!
• The Piedmont extents from the middle of Virginia westward to the Blue Ridge Mountains. It is noted for its rolling hills, upland habitats, and clay-heavy, often rocky soils. This region was historically dominated by oak-hickory forests.
• The Coastal Plain extends mid-state to the Atlantic coast. It is characterized by low topography, sandy or silty soils, and extensive wetland habitats and estuaries. This region includes the Tidewater area, which is influenced by the Chesapeake Bay and tidal rivers.

Ecotype:

A genetically distinct population of a species that has adapted to specific environmental conditions within its range. Ecotypes arise due to natural selection and can show differences in traits like drought tolerance, flowering times, cold hardiness, or growth patterns, even within the same species. Ecotypic variation is as a result of particular environmental trends. Individuals able to successfully pass on their genes establish a population best adapted to the local environment. Over a long period of time, a plant that grew in a mountainous region may have slight genetic and physiological differences to the same species that grew by a coastline. For example, salt tolerance in coastal populations or cold tolerance in high-elevation populations. If enough genetic differences accumulate, or a population becomes isolated, an ecotypic variation can become its own subspecies, variety, or entirely new species through a process called speciation. Note: by interbreeding a local ecotype with a non-local ecotype, those genetic advantages can become averaged out or lost in offspring.

Subspecies & Variety:

Refer to naturally occurring categories of variation within a species that exhibit distinctive traits, such as flower color, leaf shape, disease resistance, or habitat preference. These traits are genetically stable, inherited, and can be passed down to future generations. The difference between the two lies in the degree of differentiation, the factors driving their evolution, and their patterns of interbreeding. Subspecies typically exhibit more pronounced differences, often shaped by geographic or ecological isolation, which reduces interbreeding with other subspecies. Varieties, on the other hand, possess minor but detectable differences and often occur within the same plant population, where they can interbreed freely. In plant scientific naming conventions, a subspecies is indicated with "ssp." or "subsp.", while a variety is designated by "var."

Cultivar (short for "cultivated variety"):

A plant variety that has been selected and bred by humans for specific desirable traits, such as leaf or flower color, growth habit, size, disease resistance, fruit production, or sterility. Cultivars are typically patented and mass-produced, propagated asexually (through cuttings, grafting, or cloning) to maintain their unique characteristics for commercial value, ensuring consistency across plants. A cultivar of a native plant is sometimes known as a nativar. 

Nativar (short for "native cultivar"):

Refers to a cultivated variety of a native plant that has been selected or bred for specific traits, such as flower color, growth habit, or disease resistance. While nativars are derived from native plants, they may differ genetically and ecologically from wild-type populations.

Genetic diversity:

Genetic diversity is lower compared to wild-type plants due to cloned mass production. Asexually propagated nativars, such as those grown from cuttings or tissue culture, are genetically identical, making them more vulnerable to disease or environmental stressors. Seed-grown nativars, when available, retain more genetic diversity but may still lack the full adaptability of wild populations.

Sterility:

A benefit for small gardens is that some nativars are sterile and incapable of reproducing by seed, or have a more compact growth habit than the wild-type species. This can help gardeners maintain a tidy landscape, but at the cost of these plants being unable to sustain themselves naturally. Sterile nativars also do not produce seeds that feed wildlife, such as insects and birds that rely on them as a food source.

Wildlife support:

Nativars may not support wildlife as effectively as their wild-type ("straight species") counterparts, particularly if selected traits alter ecological interactions. For example, sterile or closed flowers (such as double-flowered cultivars of Hydrangea arborescens) may reduce access to nectar and pollen for pollinators. Similarly, leaf color variants (Physocarpus opulifolius cultivars with red or purple foliage) may have altered chemical compositions, making them unpalatable to native insect herbivores that depend on the original species.

Hybrid parentage & mislabeling:

Some plants sold as nativars are actually hybrids, with parentage that includes non-native species (such as Lonicera hybrids). The hybrid status of these plants is not always clearly labeled, and commercial retailers may not distinguish between a true native cultivar and a hybrid of mixed origin. As a result, gardeners seeking ecologically beneficial plants may unknowingly introduce hybrids with reduced wildlife value.

Use for conservation:

In conservation efforts, certain disease-resistant nativars may help restore decimated native populations. For example, resistant cultivars of Fraxinus spp. (Ash trees) are being developed to combat Emerald Ash Borer devastation. However, in general, commercial nativars are not recommended for habitat restoration, as they often lack the genetic diversity needed for long-term ecological resilience.

Research & wildlife support:

Some research is being conducted to evaluate how nativars support wildlife compared to their wild-type counterparts. Organizations such as the Mt. Cuba Center are testing cultivar trials to assess pollinator attraction, nectar production, and ecological value, with surprising results in some cases.

Straight Species or "wild-type":

Refers to a native plant that is uncultivated. 

Right Plant, Right Place: 

A fundamental gardening principle that emphasizes selecting plants that are well-suited to the specific conditions of a site to ensure their success with minimal intervention. It's important for gardeners and landscapers to consider factors such as light exposure, soil types, soil moisture, climate, and local ecology. By matching plants to their ideal environment, gardeners can significantly reduce maintenance, conserve resources like water, reduce or eliminate the needs for fertilizer, improve longevity and health of a planting, and support local biodiversity.

This principle is especially important in native plant gardening and sustainable landscaping, where plant selection can enhance ecosystem health and resilience. We highly recommend learning the basic conditions of your landscape before choosing plants, and doing research on the species native to your area. There are many local professional landscaping services that will visit your land and provide tailored recommendations, plans, or offer installation of native plants. WBN does not currently provide this service to homeowners, but feel free to reach out to us for recommendations of service providers.

Light Exposure:

All plants need sunlight. Some are adapted to a full day of sunlight, others are adapted to the most indirect slivers of illumination. We break light exposure levels down into three simple categories:

• 〇 Full Sun: 6+ average hours of direct sunlight. Prairies, fields, meadows, beaches, boulevards, parking lots, roadsides, and hell-strips (the bit of land between a road and a sidewalk) are some examples. 

• ◑ Part Sun: 3-6 average hours of direct sunlight. Forest edges and savannas, hillsides, east and west faces of buildings are examples. Part Sun and Part Shade are nebulous terms we combined for simplicity’s sake, to refer to an area that experiences a few hours of direct sunlight and shade. “Dappled light” is another common term, usually referring to areas with partially open tree canopies where some bright sunlight can squeak past for much of the day.

• ◉ Shade: 0-3 average hours of direct sunlight. Deciduous forests, sides of buildings and structures. “Deep Shade” refers to 1 or less hours of direct sunlight. Many woodland perennials are adapted to deep shade.

Soil Types:

Much of Virginia has dense native clay soil. But depending on your environment, or how the soil of your land was amended or replaced, you may have sandy, loamy, or rocky soil beneath your feet, or a combination. All plants have a preference for what soil type they grow in.

Clay or Heavy Soil:

Dense, slick and tacky when wet, hard when dry. Poor aeration, slow water absorption, poor draining, high mineral nutrient content, high compaction. Clay soils are valued for their nutrient content and ability to hold moisture, and many Virginia natives are adapted to clay soil. Species that like well draining conditions will usually not thrive in clay soils.

Sandy or Light Soil:

Loose, small particles of decomposed and worn minerals. Low nutrients, usually high aeration, low compaction, porous and easily draining, susceptible to water erosion. Often in alluvial areas such as floodplains, coastal areas, streams, and riverbeds. But also remnants of glacial activity and ancient dunes. Plants that grow in sandy soil usually have deep, wide-spreading fibrous roots to hold onto the soil. Many are adapted to flooding or drought.

Loamy or Just Loam:

A rich combination of clay, sand, and silt. Almost all plants will be able to grow well in loamy soil. It drains well and holds onto moisture, and is fertile with higher concentrations of organic matter. Loam is often the soil composition of forests, grasslands, riparian areas, and wetlands.\

Rocky:

Also known as shallow or gravelly soil. Thin, lean soils low in organic matter and quick draining. Comprised of irregular pieces of stone and rock particles. Occurs naturally in areas where topsoil is thin above bedrock, or where soil eroded away. Rocky soil is also present artificially in disturbed areas such as near gravel roadsides, railroad embankments, construction areas, urban areas, parking lots, and waste areas. Considered difficult for plants to grow in, and often occupied by those adapted to disturbance such as weedy and short-lived species, and xeric plants that grow at high mountainous elevations, ravines and cliffs. Such plants tend to be able to grow in conditions few other plants can survive.

Soil Moisture:

The average level of moisture to be found at ground level. All plants are adapted to specific moisture levels, with some able to grow in arid zones or wetlands, or a combination. We divide soil moisture levels into 4 different categories:

Dry Soil:

Also known as arid or xeric soil. Soils far from water sources, or in areas with low annual rainfall. Or due to its topography or composition the soil does not retain moisture long after precipitation, or due to high sun exposure will dry out quickly. The Virginia Piedmont has many dry, hilly, upland soils. Such soil may be high in clay, sand or rock content, and low in organic matter. Long-lived plants adapted to dry soils often have thick, deep roots (many prairie grasses) to efficiently collect water and stay anchored to steep topography, or store moisture in their roots and stems (cacti, stonecrops, succulents).

Average:

Also known as mesic soil. A soil with well-balanced or moderate level of moisture that is well draining and doesn’t completely dry out. Many forests are mesic, with the higher organic material at ground-level able to retain moisture for longer than inorganic soils, and the shade of tree canopies reduces water evaporation. Ecosystems with average soil may receive an moderate amount of rainfall. Generally not close proximity to bodies of water, or may be in upland sites nearby water sources that make soil retain average moisture.

Moist Soil:

Soils that are frequently wet but well draining, with some level of oxygen intact. This soil stays consistently moist and does not dry out. Seasonal flood sites, wet meadows, low elevation areas, stream or river edges, and floodplain forests are examples. Soil may be loamy, high in organic matter and lower in pH (acidity) due to the natural processes of decomposition. Plants that grow moist soil are adapted to higher seasonal precipitation and flooding, and are able to tolerate soils with lower oxygen levels. Plants preferring this soil type typically have strong, wide-reaching systems of roots to hold onto flooded soils.

Wet Soil:

Also known as hydric or boggy soil. This soil is water-logged and low-oxygen, characteristic of areas where water collects and does not drain. Pond edges, riparian areas, wetlands, and low coastal areas are examples. The Virginia coastal plain has many wetland environments where species have adapted to only live in the stagnant, boggy soils. Some plants (such as Cardinal flower, Lobelia cardinalis) are "hydrophytes" adapted to grow within or even completely submerged in water.

Dormancy:

An evolutionary adaptation that prevents the seeds of some plant species from germinating during unsuitable outdoor conditions that would typically lead to a low chance of survival. Dormancy also spreads out and staggers species germination, protecting them from being wiped out by an unexpected cold snap or drought. Dormancy can be caused by factors such as tough seed coats that prevent water and air uptake, chemical inhibitors naturally present within the seed that need to be leached out, or an underdeveloped embryo that needs time to grow.

Stratification (Botany):

The pre-germination treatment used to overcome seed dormancy by mimicking natural seasons. Many plants have evolved to have their seeds require exposure to specific temperature and moisture levels over time to trigger germination. This process helps break dormancy by softening seed coats or activating internal biochemical changes.

Stratification can be cold (chilling seeds at low temperatures) or warm (exposing seeds to higher temperatures), depending on the plant species. In a majority of cases, seeds going through a single cold season is enough to break dormancy and successfully germinate in the spring or summer. Stratification may be done naturally by sowing seeds in pots and containers, or a jug (i.e. the “milk jug method”) and leaving them outdoors to experience seasonal weather. Some seeds need as little as 10 days of cold moist exposure, while others may need up to half a year (120 days) or more.

Artificial stratification typically involves chilling seeds by mixing them with a moistened medium like sand, vermiculite or peat moss, and storing them in a plastic bag or sealed container inside a refrigerator for weeks or months. This method can be employed at any time of year, and allows cold-treated seeds that need stratification to be sown and germinated at the whim of a gardener.

Scarification (Botany):

The pre-treatment of seeds by etching, breaking, or weakening the exterior coat or membrane to promote germination. Many seeds have hard or impermeable shells (like a peanut shell or a peach pit) that both protects the seed from being damaged and also delays it from germinating in nature when it immediately touches the ground, giving it a better chance at survival. Generally, scarifying seeds before sowing will greatly improve its speed of germination.

Scarification is a process used to break or weaken the impermeable seed coat to allow water and oxygen exchange to the seed embryo. Seeds naturally undergo processes like weathering, animal digestion, or microbial activity, which wear down the impermeable coat so germination may begin. Scarification is commonly applied to most seeds of the Fabaceae (legume / pea / bean) family.

Techniques for artificial scarification include mechanical methods (nicking, scratching or sanding the seed coat), chemical treatments (using acids or other chemicals to weaken the outer layer), and thermal methods (exposing seeds to hot water or fluctuating temperatures). 

Double Dormancy:

Occurs when a seed possesses two distinct dormancy mechanisms that must be overcome before germination can occur. This dual dormancy often involves a combination of factors that prevent the seed from sprouting. Some seeds need scarification followed by a period of stratification. Some seeds need a period of exposure to cold moisture, followed by a period of warm moisture, followed by another cold period. In many cases this can be overcome by allowing seeds to be exposed outdoors for two winters, or interchanging artificial stratifications to mimic what seeds experience naturally.

Cotyledon and True Leaves:

New seedlings emerge from germination with cotyledon leaves, or embryonic leaves. These plant parts exist within the embryo before a seed even begins to germinate. You can think of these as their “baby” leaves that help the plant to grow from a state of infancy into adolescence. In the seedling stage, the next set of leaves to emerge will be the plant’s “true leaves.”

Soil Inoculant:

In the context of germination, an inoculant is an amendment typically containing beneficial bacteria that help legume-family plants establish nitrogen-fixing root nodules. These bacteria (called rhizobia) naturally exist in soil and form a symbiotic relationship with the legume plant, converting atmospheric nitrogen into a form the plant can draw on for their growth.

Many legume family plants (Amorpha, Baptisia, Lespedeza, Senna, etc.) make their own nitrogen via specialized root nodules, requiring rhizobia to do so. While primarily limited to legume species, some grasses such as Switchgrass (Panicum virgatum) can also create its own nitrogen using the same bacteria.

If growing in containers with a sterile potting mix, adding a small (1 or 2 tablespoons) amount of native topsoil to the media can often accomplish inoculation. Amendment is often not needed if germinating directly into native soil. Inoculant microbes are commercially available online, including as “Legume inoculants” for garden peas and beans which can work for many native legume species.